What’s Lost, What’s Just Waiting: Finding an Alternate China in Sichuan

  You walk in on the Terracotta Army, and it’s hard not to feel like you’re discovering something. Despite the tourists shuffling in with you. Despite the air hanger base it’s contained in. Despite already seeing this thousands of times, in Nat Geo, in NYTs, History Channel—the world’s biggest pottery celebrity. Because there’s a presence … More What’s Lost, What’s Just Waiting: Finding an Alternate China in Sichuan

China on China’s Terms: Okay, time for some clarity (My China P2)

The train pulls out from Beijing, and the dread’s ballooning. A sunset on the valley of half-finished apartment blocks, cranes and craters, overnight vertical mansions that may never get lived in. Phones keep shooting off around me like fireworks. Squeezed between two ladies yelling over me. It’s a strange combination of being unmoored–cast adrift–and being … More China on China’s Terms: Okay, time for some clarity (My China P2)

Heavy History and Strange Present: The Beijing One (My China P. 1)

On the last day, I visit his mausoleum. He’d been staring at me this whole time, that portrait hung from the gates of the Forbidden City. I knew it was there, but seeing it in person gave me a kind-of reverse Mona Lisa: it’s so much bigger than I imagined. His watery eyes, that somber … More Heavy History and Strange Present: The Beijing One (My China P. 1)